Like-for-Like Fixed Hardware Replacement and Inventory


This page contains a database of bolts and other fixed hardware in Eldorado Canyon that the poster thought needed to be replaced.

WARNING! ACE DOES NOT INSPECT, MAINTAIN OR REPLACE, AND IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE INSPECTION, MAINTENANCE OR REPLACEMENT OF BOLTS OR ANY OTHER ANY FIXED HARDWARE IN ELDORADO CANYON STATE PARK.

ACE has begun this list to provide a forum for local climbers to provide their opinion on the current state of bolts and other fixed hardware and to make it easier for climbers who desire to replace fixed hardware to access a list of possible candidates for replacement. ACE makes no representation or warranty about the condition of any bolts or fixed hardware in Eldorado, and makes no representation or warranty about any bolt or fixed hardware that is on this list. ACE's opinion on the condition of fixed hardware may differ from that of the poster.

Any climber who desires to replace any bolts or fixed hardware that is a "like-for-like" replacements (e.g., replacing an old bolt with a new bolt in the same location) must notify Eldorado Canyon State Park (303.494.3943) and obtain a permit for the replacement. These permits are usually granted quickly. No application or notice to ACE's Fixed Hardware Review Committee is necessary or required.

Add to the database.

Please report all updates or corrections to aceeldo@googlegroups.com

Fixed Hardware in need of replacement

This table has a lot of columns. To make it a little easier on your eyes, just check the columns you want to see.

RouteFixed Gear TypeOriginally InstalledStatusComments
Advanced Rockcraftbolt1986Replaced May 21, 2010
Bolt at crux was an old buttonhead. Replaced with 3/8" 5-piece Rawl.
Aerospace/Aeronaut, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database- bolt anchor at top needs replacing
Allosaur, Pitch 2boltReplaced
From Steve Levin's database- 2 bolt anchor installed
amputee love anchor, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database
Android Tilt, Pitch 1nut1982Replaced December 31, 2008
2 bolt anchor atop pitch to replace 2 fixed nuts.
Android Tilt, Pitch 1boltReplaced
From Steve Levin's database - replaced anchor 2008
Archer-Mclanahan, Pitch 1boltLong agoReplaced September 30, 2005
9/05 Replaced two protection bolts(1/4" Rawl, 3/8" Star Dryvin) on route with 3/8" 5-piece SS Rawls.
Atom Smasher, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database- replace anchor bolts and add chains to anchor
Bastille Crack, Pitch 1boltLong agoReplaced October 31, 2003
10/03 Replaced worn smash links and chains at top of first pitch with quick links and chains from ASCA.
black walk/desert, Pitch 3boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database- needs bolt or piton at belay
Blackwalk, Pitch 1bolt1980Needs Replacing as of July 9, 2010
The anchor on top of pitch 1 needs replacement. Bolt sleeves are exposed.
Bridge-It Bardot, Pitch 1pin1980Replaced December 31, 2008
2 bolt anchor atop pitch to replace 2 bad pitons
C'est La Vie, Pitch 1boltLong agoReplaced October 31, 2003
10/03 Replaced hanger on one of the anchor bolts on the mid-belay with ASCA Fixe 4mm SS hanger. Also replaced severely worn hardware on anchor with 4 quick-links from ASCA.
Camouflage, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database- replace all bolts
Chockstone, Pitch 2bolt2009Replaced July 25, 2014
2 bolt anchor
cinch crack, anchor, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database
Continental crag, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database- 2 bolt anchor on lefts side needs replacing
Dandi Line, Pitch 1bolt1981Replaced December 31, 2006
Replaced two bolt anchor.
Darkness till Dawn Rap Station, Pitch 1boltReplaced
From Steve Levin's database
Diffraction, Pitch 1bolt1986Replaced December 31, 2006
Replaced one protection bolt.
Earnest Stemmingway , Pitch 1bolt1980Replaced December 31, 2007
Replaced protection bolt in 2007.
Emergency Brake, Pitch 1boltReplaced
From Steve Levin's database
exhibit A, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database- all bolts need replacing
Exodus / Book of NumbersboltNeeds Replacing as of May 25, 2010
The 2 bolt anchor at the end of p1 of Book of Numbers and also shared by Exodus is in need of updating.
Genesis, Pitch 1bolt1980sNeeds Replacing as of July 15, 2010
2 older bolts protect the slab climbing above the roofy move left. One has an old, rusty hanger, the other is a SMC style hanger. Bolts themselves look in OK shape, but no idea how long they are.
grandmother's challenge/spur of the moment, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database- original 2 bolt anchor needs replacing
Gravity's Angelbolt1987Replaced May 27, 2010
All bolts on this slabby climb need updating. Most are old SMC. All have now been replaced with Rawl 5-piece 3/8" and/or fixe stainless with colored hangers.
green willow wall, Pitch 1boltNeeds Removal as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database- several bolts need to be moved, from old FHRC approved application
hair city, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database
Hairstyles and Attitudes, Pitch 1bolt1988Replaced June 30, 2009
Replaced 10 protection bolts and two bolt anchor.
Heart of Gold, Pitch 1boltReplaced
From Steve Levin's database- per FHRC app, added bolt and replaced button head and 2nd bolt left of arete at mid-station
Incarnatioin, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database- "fix up the route"
inflorescence, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database- missing 2nd, 5th, 7-10th hangars, remove stray bolt
Jackson Browne , Pitch 2bolt1982Replaced December 31, 2006
Replaced protection bolt on P2.
just another girl's climb, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database- replace anchor bolts, add chains
lady godiva, anchor bolts, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database
Le Toit DirectboltNeeds Replacing as of May 25, 2010
An old 1/4" bolt, the second on the route, was placed around 1977. The first bolt, a ring style, was placed in 1985 and also needs replacement.
le void, Pitch 1boltNeeds Removal as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database- remove 2x sling anchors. From old FHRC approved app.
lips like sugar, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
all ring bolts, From Steve Levin's database
Magic Carpet Ride, Pitch 1bolt1988Replaced December 31, 2008
Magic Carpet Ride: 2 bolt anchor atop pitch to replace single bolt lower point.
March Of Dimes, Pitch 1boltLong agoReplaced October 31, 2003
10/03 Replaced links on 1st anchor with quick-links.
Mellow Yellow, Pitch 3boltNeeds Replacing as of May 17, 2010
Several vintage bolts on the last pitch (12a face/seam) are in dire need of updating.
Mineral Maze, Pitch 1bolt1984Replaced December 31, 2006
2nd bolt replaced.
model citizen, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database
No Visible Means of Support , Pitch 1bolt1982Replaced December 31, 2006
Replaced one protection bolt.
On-slot, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database- 2nd bolt needs replacing
one and a half hours of power, Pitch 1boltNeeds Removal as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database- stud needs removal
Outer Space, Pitch 1pin1970sOK as is as of May 28, 2010
This is regarding the pin that has fallen out at the bottom of the P1 dihedral in 2006 or so. A perfect yellow alien takes its place.
over ed powerline, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database
Over'ed PowerlineboltNeeds Replacing as of May 25, 2010
The single bolt on this climb protects the crux and is >20 years old. The bolt is sticking out ~1/2" and doesn't look very solid. Exposed Sleeve
PA's Variation, Pitch 1bolt1964Replaced June 30, 2007
06/07 Replaced original 1964 Pat Ament bolt with 12mmx75mm SS Fixe triplex bolt and hanger.
Pansee Savage, Pitch 1bolt1984Replaced May 31, 2000
05/00 Replaced 3 protection bolts.
Pilgrim, Pitch 1bolt1987Replaced December 31, 2008
2 bolt anchor at base of pitch to reinforce single bolt anchor and allow 120-foot rap to ground.
pipeline bonecrusher, Pitch 1nutNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database- add bolt anchors (from old FHRC approved app)
Pony Express, Pitch 2boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database-"re-do anchors at top of pitch 2"
Pseudo Sidetrack, Pitch 2boltLong time agoReplaced December 31, 2006
Replaced anchor bolts at top of P2.
Psycho Pigeon, Pitch 2bolt1987Replaced June 30, 2007
06/07 Replaced five 1987 button-heads with 12mmx75mm SS Fixe triplex bolts and hangers.
rough roof, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database
Rush Buick, Pitch 1otherLong time agoReplaced December 31, 2010
2 bolt anchor atop pitch to replace sling on horn.
sampson effect, anchor bolts, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database
Scotch And Soda, Pitch 1boltLong agoReplaced December 31, 1999
12/99 Replaced 2 bolts at 1st belay.
Sickness Unto Deathbolt1980sNeeds Replacing as of June 1, 2010
Old ring bolts. This is the pitch immediately left of P5 of the Naked Edge. 4 bolts visible from above Naked Edge. Hank Caylor indicates 7 bolts on Mountain Project.
Side Wall, Pitch 1boltLong time agoReplaced April 30, 2009
Replaced two bolt anchor.
Sister morphine, Pitch 1tree1981Replaced December 31, 2008
2 bolt anchor atop pitch to replace sling on small tree.
Song of the DodoboltNeeds Replacing as of May 13, 2010
Last bolt of the route. The bolt and hanger are missing, the hole and metal sleeve are visible.
Star Track, Pitch 1bolt1980Replaced December 31, 2006
Replaced one protection bolt.
Star Track, Pitch 1boltReplaced
From Steve Levin's database- replaced 2006
Sticky Feet, Pitch 2bolt1981Replaced June 30, 2007
06/07 Replaced a 1981 1/4 inch bolt and Leeper hanger with 12mmx75mm SS Fixe triplex bolt and hanger.
Superfly, Pitch 1nut1983Replaced December 31, 2008
2 bolt anchor atop pitch to replace fixed nut and piton.
Surfs up, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database- remove 2 x bolts, replace with 1
test, Pitch 1bolt2000Needs Removal as of November 13, 2010
this is a test
The Bulge, Pitch 3boltLong agoReplaced June 30, 2005
06/05 Replaced the protection bolt (3/8" Star Dryvin) on top of 3rd pitch with 3/8" 5-piece SS Rawl. Replaced smash links and old hangers on pitch 1 and pitch 2 belays with new hangers, quick links and chain.
The Diving Board, Pitch 1boltLong agoReplaced September 30, 1998
09/98 Replaced 1 anchor bolt
The Web, Pitch 1bolt1987Replaced June 30, 2007
06/07 Replaced all four 1987 Mammut ring bolts and the two anchor bolts with 12mmx75mm SS Fixe triplex bolts, hangers and double ring anchor hangers.
Tombstone, Pitch 1boltReplaced
From Steve Levin's database- anchor at top added
Up the Downclimb, Pitch 1treeLong time agoReplaced December 31, 2008
2 bolt anchor midway up pitch to allow for a single-rope rappel descent (an old sling on a small tree was used prior.
Up the Downclimb, Pitch 1bolt1981Replaced December 31, 2006
Replaced two bolt anchor.
Vertigo Raps, Pitch 1boltReplaced
From Steve Levin's database
Walk The Talk, Pitch 1boltLong time agoReplaced December 31, 2006
Replaced one protection bolt.
wasabe, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database- all bolts need replacing
Water Line , Pitch 1bolt1982Replaced December 31, 2006
One protection bolt replaced.
west buttress, Pitch 2boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database
West Buttress Of The Bastille , Pitch 2boltLong agoReplaced October 31, 2003
10/03 Replaced worn smash links on top of 2nd pitch with 4 quick-links from ASCA.
Wind Tunnel/Rhombohedral, Pitch 1boltNeeds Replacing as of August 1, 2010
From Steve Levin's database- anchor needs replacing
Wingshot, Pitch 1boltReplaced August 31, 2008
From Steve Levin's database- higher 2 bolt anchor installed
Young, Blonde, and Easy, Pitch 1pin1983Replaced December 31, 2008
One protection bolt and 2 bolt anchor atop pitch to replace old knifeblade and sling.
Your MotherboltNeeds Replacing as of May 21, 2010
Last bolt, just above the crux is still old and lousy. All others replaced in 2009. FHRC petition to relocate this bolt was denied.
Zabrina, Pitch 1boltReplaced
From Steve Levin's database- pro bolt replaced, ASCA hanger 12x75 mm SS bolt 2008
Zambezi, Pitch 3boltLong time agoReplaced December 31, 2006
Replaced protection bolt on P3.