#90. Le Void Anchor

Information from Applicant

The FHRC has received the following information from the applicant.

Le Void Beautification Project:



Replace x 3 sling anchors with bolted stations



This is a proposal to clean up the unsightly wads of slings on Le Void, and on the large horn between Le Void and Love Minus Zero. Personally I cringe every time I look up and see these eyesores. The 2 sling anchors on Le Void (above pitches 1 and 2) should be replaced with 2-ring bolt lowering stations at appropriate places in the vicinity of the webbing. The sling anchor in the spike at the foot of the obvious ledge should be removed, and a 2 ring bolt station placed at chest level at the ledge to facilitate rappelling off Love Minus Zero/Avoid.

Information from FHRC

The FHRC is required to offer information about the following factors of the proposed anchor.



- There has also been, historically, an unsightly mass of webbing at the proposed new anchors' locations.



- The proposed bolts should serve the same purpose as the existing anchors.



- The proposed bolts should be much less visible that the existing sling anchors.



- The proposed bolts should be safer than the existing sling anchors due to their longer lifetime.



FHRC:recommended Park:approved Action:

Comments Received From the Climbing Community

13 In Favor, 5 Opposed


I'm all for beautification...
This will be more effective beautification than the efforts at making Eldorado into a hiking park. Bolts are also safer than webbing. I'm in.
Sounds good. Please use anodized hangers.
Yes, it is unsightly. Good idea. Best to put something in that doesn't wear down from multiple raps/TRs unless it is replaceable.
I'm all in favor of getting rid of the obnoxious slings, but are 3 stations really necessary? The lower-left station, atop a short 5.9 crack, seems silly.
Maybe the slings should just be removed and leave it at that. The top anchors on Le Void make sense but the others are unecessary.
Seems like none of the fixed anchors are necessary. Strip the lot and leave it at that. Besides, the butt-level belay on love minus zero is kind of memorable.
I too wonder if three anchors are necessary -- maybe the most visible slings on the most frequently done route in this area should be replaced?

If the slings are removed and not replaced with low-key, bombproof bolted anchors, the slings will only reappear in short order. Most people who get on this route either bail after the first lead (either the 5.9 or 5.11 start), or fail on the 5.11+ layback. A few people get above the lieback, then bail. Anchors only at the top of the route do not address the issue of dealing with unsightly wads of slings (because they will just reappear...).
Agreed, the slings will only reappear if they are stripped. Two sets of anchors, tops of pitch 1 and 2 of Le Void, should suffice though.
When was the last time these slings were stripped? How many years accumulation is this ? Maybe strip them and review in a years time to see how fast they return.
Slings are not permanent. True, someone must go and cut them down on occassion to reduce the visual intrusion. Bolts forever scar the rock. Just say no to bolts.
In favor of the anchors on Le Void; the proposed anchor on Avoid is lame. How about just adding an anchor at the top of the second pitch of Love Minus Zero for retreat after backing off the roof pitch. I think that very few people would use the anchor on Avoid.