#85. Peanuts Wall New Route

Information from Applicant

I am seeking permission to equip a route twenty feet left of The Sacred and the Profane on lower Peanuts Wall. This route was the first route approved by the FHRC in 1992. At that time, I placed anchors on the route and worked it on toprope. I broke my arm in a motorcycle accident and when I returned to bolt the remainder of the route, I was told that my permit expired.

Recently, I returned to the route on toprope and was able to free the moves that had previously stumped me. The proposed line is an independent line between Scorpions and Sacred and climbs the clean face. The route would require five bolts in 70 feet (in addition the the current bolt anchors). No cleaning is required. The route will be an excellent addition to Eldorado Canyon as it will be the first 5.13 added since the bolting ban went into effect. The route stays about 15-20 feet away from both its neighbors, until it joins the upper exit to Scorpions. No bolts will be placed near this shared 5.9 terrain. This section accepts some small clean gear, but anyone redpointing the lower face should have no problem running it out to the anchors.

I plan to equip the route with 5-piece 3/8-inch Rawl bolts and Trango hangers. I can paint the hangers to match the rock. I will replace one of the anchor hangers with a Fixe ring hanger for better lowering.

Information from FHRC

The FHRC is required to offer information about the following factors of the proposed route.

Factors in Favor

- Independent Line. The proposed route is located between Scorpions and The Sacred and the Profane. Scorpions begins approximately 12 ft to the left and The Sacred and the Profane begins approximately 15ft to the right. The bolts for the proposed route cannot be reached by its two neighbors, however it eventually intersects with Scorpions and utilizes Scorpions last two bolts. It is impossible for the neighboring routes to reach the proposed bolts at any point.

- Direct Line. The proposed route climbs a fairly direct line up the center of the prow between Scorpions and The Sacred and the Profane. Near the top, the proposed line merges into Scorpions and uses its last two bolts before ending at a pre-existing belay anchor.

- Good Rock. The proposed route is on excellent rock with the exception of the initial move which involves using a somewhat dubious hold, however this hold is not the only option to access the prow.

Interesting Combination of Moves. Although the proposed route is out of the climbing ability of FHRC members, a number of other climbers have attested to its quality of moves and interesting sequence. Upon a rappel inspection the route seems very high quality.

- Safety. The proposed route is safe. The number of bolts will be 7 (this includes the two on Scorpions). A two bolt anchor already exists on the ledge system above Scorpions, and the ground can be reached with a single 60m rope.

- Location. The proposed route is located on the lower third of Peanuts wall, an area that receives the bulk of activity as a number of quality routes are in the immediate vicinity.

- Aesthetic Position. The climb ascends a beautiful lichen covered expanse of rock.

Factors Against

- Altered Routes. The proposed route has not been modified in any way.

- Rock Quality. Good/excellent

- Protection Reachable from Neighboring Routes. The two neighboring routes cannot reach the bolts on the proposed route.

- Natural Protection Possibilities. None. It is on an extremely steep and featureless slab. It can only be safely protected with bolts.

Neutral Factors

- Dangerous Routes. The proposed route is certainly safe for a climber competent at the grade.

- Ability to toprope. The route can be toproped, but reaching the anchors requires climbing nearby routes.

Results

FHRC:recommended Park:approved Action:

Comments Received From the Climbing Community

14 In Favor, 0 Opposed
This was a terrific route proposal in 1992 and remains a worthy addition to Eldorado
An awesome addition!
I wonder if the number of bolts could be limited to 4 additional bolts more in keeping with the run-[Truncated due to programming error - now resolved]
I have not previewed the proposed route so my opinion is based on what is written here and my famili[Truncated due to programming error - now resolved]

Looks great, and very appropriate for the Peanuts area.
I have rapped the proposed route and it looks good.
A nice addition to the wall. Also one of the few shady hard routes in the Canyon. Just make sure Fred gives it a respectful name.

Finally, a safe way to get a rope on Scorpions!
I've rapped the line, and it looks very good--a safer version of The Sacred and the Profane.


Seems like 4-5 body height lengths of independent climbing based upon you photo. Must be a big guy in the photo.