Comments Received From the Climbing Community | ||
| 15 In Favor, 7 Opposed | ||
| Save another tree. Yes. | ||
| Sure, as the comments indictes, Save a tree, but this proposal is lacking in informaton. I don't see a photo with this one indicating where thse white "Xs" are. The proposal says the anchors will be located at a stance, and without the photo is impossible to see where this location is. As with my comments for the other anchor proposals this year, I think it's important to locate the anchors i many cases above the ledge or rotten bands that many of these climbs first pitches end on. they are easier to clip for th leader, they are easier to access and get out on rappel from, and they provide a safer more direct location for top roping. However, it can't be deteremoned from this proposal's text without a photo where the proposed bolts are to be placed. So i don't thnk there's eoug info here to warrant a "Yes" vote although I am in favro ofmaking safer these marginal belay and rappel points. For instance, another poor anchor and rappel point on te West idge is the anchor at the top of the first pitch ot Chockstone. It's a pitifully small tree and webbing around a block that is completely cracked trough (in my best geiologits's judgement), A bolt anchor, above the rotten band , would be a great safety improvement to this an adjacent pitches, but it has to be above the ledge/ rotten band for ease of access and safety in cliping te belay and enter onto the rappel. Can we get these climbers/anchor-proposers to replace that anchor as well? My vote for now is "No" due to my percieved lack of info, but i could possibly vote "Yes" if my concerns about location were addressed. | ||
| I would agree with the prveious post that an anchor should be placed on Chockstone as well. It can be hidden and be much safer than the present one. I also agree on Xanadu one is needed since that rotten band has lots of loose stone that I've seen come hurtling down from people, an anchor below it, more for getting off than rapelling would get a yes from me. | ||
| A picture of the proposed location would be helpful in achieving consensus. This route is in frequent use and ends on a loose ledge, so I believe it's a good idea. | ||
| These are both popular, classic lines and the intervention suggested by the proposal indicatess the good intentions to mitigate damage to natural features on the West Ridge. There is in no way any compromise to the ethics or traditions of the first ascencionists or the area in general. Let's move forward in protecting the West Ridge's natural resources. | ||
| good idea, i support it. | ||
| Need a specific topo picture or photo. Again, based on the previous anchor submissions this round, I am fearing poorly placed anchors may not help the tree, the main reason to put in these bolts. | ||
| I would like to see a photo of the proposed placement before I can consider a 'yes' vote. Thanks. | ||
| Crusher or Ray--is there a photo for this one? I put my faith in the applicant that the location is ideal and he/she is competent. | ||
| The current tree anchor located down and to the left of the route requires the climber to traverse to a downclimb across some loose stone. This is reason enough, in my opinion, to place the two bolts in the proposed area. From the ground, I believe the bolts won't even be visible (blocked by a tree?). | ||
| A picture or topo would be most helpful. | ||
| Save the tree. Again, a good idea | ||
| The tree is in really good shape so this makes me wonder if the bolts are needed to avoid the awkward belay at the top of the pitch. If so, they would be convenience anchors and are not needed. | ||
| for several years i have thought that a anchor on top of xanadu would be a better alternative than the traverse down to the tree across all the choss. but after discussing it with fellow climbers we became concerned that it would lead to heavy top-roping of the route and all the negatives that activity usually leads to. so we thought it would be a bad idea. it would also take some of the adventure out of the climb it self,since as climbers there are certain situations that we have to learn to deal with. i now think that if by having anchours on top of xanadu will prevent a nasty accident from happening then it is probably okay. | ||
| Why do we need a bunch of anchors in Eldo that simply allow one to climb the first pitch and lower off? If we are to continue the trad ethic here, lets leave this stuff as trad climbs. A rap anchor from the top of the wall is one thing, but a bunch of sport climbing stations on Eldo classics seems like a bad idea. | ||
| If I could see the placement of the bolts, I might go for it. (And an aside: I agree with the last post and not with the second and third posts in regards to Chockstone. Chockstone is a multi-pitch climb. If you lower off the first pitch, you're bailing. No bolts needed there. I know this hasn't been proposed, but just in case anyone thinks they have a bright idea, please reconsider.) | ||
| If the idea of 'improving' an anchor includes making it safer, then please make certain that this installation would avoid both the tree and the ledge full of loose garbage. I do agree with the concerns about overly encouraging toproping first pitches. | ||
| The ledge is a mess up there. It is dangerous to descend not only for the climbers, but also those below. A rap station would be a huge imporvement. | ||
| Where do we draw the line? I down climb traversing right on rotten rock, scary, to get off. I have to say no just to keep this climb from getting overrun with people. | ||