#96. Five-Eight Crack Anchor


Information from Applicant

Replace existing slings on tree above Five-Eight Crack (Rincon Wall) with a 2-bolt belay/rappel station. Add bolts approx. 3 feet left of tree. Remove slings.

Information from FHRC

1. This proposal is to replace the existing route anchor, which consists of fixed slings around a tree, with a 2-bolt anchor.



2. The proposed anchor is at the end of the pitch, 50-60 feet above the ground.



3. Removing the fixed slings will protect the tree from abrasion and other damage.



4. Removing the fixed slings will eliminate an unsightly wad of webbing.



5. The proposed anchor is in a good location considering the route, the existing anchor, and the ability to access from above when traversing over from adjacent routes.



6. The rock quality is very good in the proposed location.



7. The anchor will consist of two bolts in a vertical configuration with a chain and ring attached.



FHRC:recommended Park:approved Action:

Comments Received From the Climbing Community

24 In Favor, 9 Opposed
A worthy preoposal to save trees in Eldorado.

I haven't been to Rincon for a while, but I have climbed the routes on this wall many times. I would suggest continuing the route until standing on the little ledge at the base of the tree, then put the anchors where they are easily reached from there.

I like the idea of saving the tree from further abuse

This is a good idea. I support it.

Why this pitch and not the 1st on Rincon? Personally, I see this tree get used more often for Rincon's 1st pitch than 5.8 crack.

Also, I agree with comment #2. Find a place where you can stand on the ledge.

Again, a noble proposal to save a well used and aging tree, aolthough it still looks strong. Once again, as with the other proposals this year, it's a greta idea to replace and safen a belay anchor and rappel point that is often used in this area. However, I disagree with the applicant's statement that the location of the bolts below the ledge and tree is an optimum location. A sfaer alternative for those both completing the 5,8 climb, or others on the wall, and for those travesig over from the first pich of Rincon, would be to locate the bolts at eye height above the traverse ledge. This makes for an easier anchor to clip while climbing, and again, for the beginning to intermediate experience climbers who do these routes, trying to clip into and lower onto a rappel below ones feet is an awkward manuever. Why not simply plave them above the ledge. Makes more sense too if one is looking to use that two bolt anchor as a top rope anchor for doing several of the climbs on that wall. The rope will easily clear the ledge and inflict no greater abrasion on the rope than at the suggested anchor location. Again, I vote to supposrt the proposal to place an anchor to save this tree and for future safety issues, but suggest that the anchor location be about eye high above the ledge that people walk over on. Otherwise I'd vote "No", since it would just look like a bolt anchor on the wall and not be easily accessible for climbers traversing over and looking to rapel down.

Like the others I agree with Comment. If you are gonna bolt the rap. You should move it up a few feet to a ledge. If you are gonna do it do it right.

por locatoin for anchor.. not necessary..

A yes vote if moved higher. I am against the marked location on the proposed photo. This would be unsightly from the ground. Higher would be optimal.



Bolts are always good to save a tree, better if you can't see them, but then again this area isn't the canyon floor.

Excellent suggestion for a high-use area. This will also serve as a convenient rappel for parties on the first pitch of Rincon.

good idea to save trees.

Bolts are too low. This is often used by climbers of less experience. Anchors in this location will not inspire as much decreased use of the tree as bolts at the level of or above the tree. Think 5.8 climber.

The bolts should go above the small ledge so they can be clipped with feet on the ledge.

I say put them above the ledge also. Was the applicant afraid of ropes getting caught or what? There is not a rationale for the bolt location given.

Yes, but only for a bolt location above the ledge.

Is the tree showing visible signs of srtess/wear? I presume so and vote yes, but otherwise no. As well, the chain and ring will wear through so fast your head is going to spin. It will constantly be toproped direct by people without the sense to use biners on it. Make sure if you put this here that the 'ring' is a fat rapid link or can otherwise be easily replaced or you'll be making a mainenence headache/saftey hazard.

Excellent idea, but I also agree that the bolts should be moved up so that you clip them off the ledge. My yes vote is not contingent on this change.

I vote yes, but the bolts look like they are too close to the tree; and people will still be grabbing and damaging the tree.



Good idea. Save the tree.

I vote "No" because the tree looks fine for now and the proposed anchor is in a poor position; it should be up on the ledge.

No because of proposed location. Put the bolts above the ledge although the rock above the ledge looks less solid. Only the drill will know. Also, the left or right of the tree is bothersome. I vote above the ledge and left of the tree.

this is another great idea but,the placement of the anchors should be from a stance slightly up and left of the tree. i realize that the idea behind having them lower is to prevent the tree from being used at all,but one must consider the fact that people traversing over from routes to the left of 5.8crack will probably still use the tree. i vote yes if the bolts are up higher and slightly left of tree.

The position of the anchor is poor, and besides, the tree is just fine.

The position of the anchor is poor, and besides, the tree is just fine.

Conditional Yes. Save the poor tree, but the anchors should be above the ledge.

This would be an unnecessarily freaky place to start a rappel since there's a big, comfy ledge right above it. I also like the idea of putting such an anchor above the first pitch of Rincon rather than where it's proposed, as that pitch seems to get a ton more traffic. That said, people do seem to toprope the climbs between 5.8 Crack and Rincon fairly frequently, which would argue for an anchor nearer the tree. Wherever you put it, I think above that ledge makes a heckuva lot more sense. Conditional yes.

I also agree that the bolts need to be up higher, on the ledge. Otherwise, people traversing over from the routes to the left will still need to use the tree to safely get down to the anchor. Thsu, continuing to damage the tree!

I, too, agree that the bolts should be moved up above the ledge and to the left of the tree (so that the tree doesn't suffer abrasion during TRs and rappeling). The obvious "end" of this very popular climb is on this ledge. My YES vote would be contingent on moving the bolted anchor above the ledge.

Yes. I support this action

I saw some guys rappelling off the second pitch of Rincon and their rope just barely reached the tree. If the anchor is up and left of the tree on the ledge, there is probably a less likely chance of somebody rapping off the ends of their ropes AND it would be on a ledge.

I support the proposal, but wonder if proposed anchor is placed in ideal location.