#95. Duh Dihedral Anchor

Information from Applicant

Replace the existing rappel and belay tree anchors with a single 2-bolt anchor. Remove slings from the tree which serves as the rappel station for Duh Dihedral.

Information from FHRC

The FHRC is required to offer information about the proposed anchors.



1) Does the proposed anchor replace a tree anchor?

The proposed two- bolt anchor will be located at the top of the route and will replace two tree anchors. The first is the tree at the top of the pitch which is used as a belay anchor, and which is looking pretty old. The second is a slightly larger tree fifteen feet west, used as a rappel. The ledgy terrain between the two trees is getting pretty trampled, probably affecting the root system of the trees. The proposed anchor will allow parties to lower off the top of Duh Dihedral, rather than have to belay on the large ledge atop the pitch. This will change the nature of the route a little, making toproping and lowering a bit more convenient, but will stop further erosion and damage to the trees and other vegetation atop the ledge.



2) Does the proposed anchor replace an unsightly wad of webbing?



Yes, at present the second tree is wrapped with a wad of webbing. This cannot be seen from the base of Duh Dihedral, but can be seen from just up and left of The Formula, at the base of the rappel.



3) Is the proposed anchor in the middle of a pitch?



The anchors are located at the top of the pitch, and can be clipped from a ledge just below the large ledge with the two trees. The proposed anchors are at about the same height as the currently used tree, and a little to the right.



4) How long is the proposed rappel?



The rappel will be about 55' long.



FHRC:recommended Park:approved Action:

Comments Received From the Climbing Community

18 In Favor, 2 Opposed
Another proposal to save a tree. I am for it.
That's a large tree, with a single rappel. I think that the argument for placing bolts is fairly weak.
Once again, as with the other two suggested rappel anchor proposal here, I am in favor of not only saving a tree, but replacing a potentially deadly ancor point should a tree fail due to old age, or interminable usage. My only concern over this proposal is to make sure that the two bolts are easily clippable from the existing belay station now located at the tree. While it would be good to locate a rapple point that doubles as a top rpe anchor with a clean running line to the base of the cliff, that location should not be too far to the right (away from the tree) as to make it any issue for someone trying to clip these bolts as either a belay or rappel anchor. That is the climber shold not have to reach ut too far and thus jeapardize their positio at the top of the pitch. i would sacrifice a bit of the "clean running" line to the base for the rappel in light of a safer clipping position a bit closer to the tree. Otherwise, I support the proposal to make safer some of the popluar an d much used rappel points on these oft done climbs. It is typically the less experienced climber who benefits from more stable and safer rappel options on these populra lines.
I go with yes under duress. While it is good to make climbs safer. It appears that these bolts are in an odd spot not making it any easier. It turns a semi-cozy belay and rap into a trickier one. And it looks like a hanging one. On one pitch I like to sit on top of the rock. Like it says above,the tree is beefy and it's only a pitchh


i'm always in favor of saving trees and eliminating webbing.
Please make sure this is not like the Washington Irving anchor which is very difficult for shorter climbers to clip.
Maybe it's just the photo, but the bolt locations seem strange. I'm all for adding an anchor here, but can we get a better idea of where the bolts will be? I conditionally vote yes.
I agree with the placing an anchor in order to save the tree and avoid unnecessary trampling of the ground at the top of the route. The photo looks like the bolts are out to the climber's right on the face. I would agree that they should be as far left as possible without making it too difficult to pull the rope and up high enough that they will be above a leader belaying from the ledge. Otherwise people are just gonna use them as a directional and then use the tree for an anchor anyway.



The bolts ought to be higher and left to approximate the old belay and make it easier to bring up a second.
I'll have to get up there soon to actually see and test the new bolt location before I comment. The bolts look to be in an awkward spot from the picture. Maybe the question is what type of anchor with respect to sport or trad. Sport is clip and lower then pull or top rope. Trad is clip and bring up the second, then thread and rap. This determines if a free running top rope is in order. I vote free running to make it friendlier for the moderate climber.
seems like the proposed placement is a little to far out. i vote yes as long as they are closer to the stance.
WHY ??
Conditional yes. Please reconsider the location of these bolts. Like many others who commented, I think they look too far to the right.
Amen to the too-far-to-the-right possibility, and to the comment about accommodating shorter climbers. This is also a neat ledge to perch on and bring up your second. I don't think there's a reason to turn it into a more sport-like experience.