#94. Dirty Deed Rappel Route

Information from Applicant

We propose replacing the Dirty Deed rappel route. The existing rappel route has three anchors consisting of fixed slings and rings around one chockstone and two trees. The proposed new rappel route will utilize three double bolt anchors along a fall line that avoids the worst of the rope snags and loose rock inherent to the Dirty Deed Gulley. The lower two new bolted anchors will also help ensure the long-term health of the two trees currently used as anchors.



The top anchor will be located on the west side of the north ridge of T-1 approximately 25 feet south of the existing sling anchor that is located in the top of the gulley.



The middle anchor will be located on the wall above and to the right of the large tree that supports an existing sling anchor.



The bottom anchor will be located on the wall above and to the left of the medium sized tree that supports an existing sling anchor.



The middle anchor will be approximately 100 feet below the top anchor.



The bottom anchor will be approximately 50 feet below the middle anchor and 90 feet above the Red Ledge.



The new anchors will consist of two bolts in a vertical configuration. The upper bolt will have a chain and ring attached. The lower bolt will have a ring attached.



The Dirty Deed rappel route is heavily used. Parties completing the popular Yellow Spur and Swanson's Ar_te routes commonly use this descent, which leads back to the base of these routes. This rappel route deserves be upgraded to protect the trees and support its high level of use.

Information from FHRC

Overview



The Dirty Deed Rappels is a popular descent for those who climb the classics such as Icarus, Swanson Arete, Yellow Spur, etc. Although fairly direct and convenient, as it ends up at most people's starting point, the current rappel route, (especially the first rappel) often sees ropes getting stuck, and rockfall is a problem. This proposal intends to replace two tree anchors and relocate a third anchor in order to make this descent option a cleaner one.



Also of note is the fact that this is not the only descent option; the East Slabs, the Chockstone Chimney/Mickey Mouse Nail Up Rappels, are also currently used.



1) Does the proposed anchor replace a tree anchor?



The two (lower) proposed anchors will replace tree anchors. The upper new anchor will replace a natural thread anchor under a chockstone at the top of the Dirty Deed. This proposal will actually relocate the position of the existing first rappel out of the Dirty Deed Chimney to provide a much cleaner line of rappel and a much cleaner pull.



2) Does the proposed anchor replace an unsightly wad of webbing?



Yes, at present both trees utilized on the Dirty Deed Rappel Route are wrapped with webbing. The thread anchor is wrapped in a wad of webbing, though it is rather hidden.



3) Is the proposed anchor in the middle of a pitch?



The anchors are located at natural belay stances which are currently used for both climbing the Dirty Deed as well as descending.



4) How long is the proposed rappel?



The first rappel, which is approximately 98' (29 meters) long, begins approximate 25' to the south of the notch where the original rappel station is located and ends up on a good ledge. Rappel 2 would replace an existing tree station and is 50' (15 meters) in length. Rappel 3 also replaces a tree station and goes 90' (26 meters) to reach Red Ledge. The rappels are all fairly clean and pull nicely. Note that the first (upper) rappel reaches a nice ledge. It could be made shorter, to better accommodate shorter ropes, but would have to end on a much smaller footledge. The applicant felt that most modern Eldo climbers use 60 meter ropes, so the nice ledge option was better.



FHRC:recommended Park:approved Action:

Comments Received From the Climbing Community

24 In Favor, 4 Opposed
This is long overdue improvement for a popular rappel route.
This is an excellent idea, and I support it.

For the highest station, how about finding a place on TOP for the bolts, rather than the SIDE of the cliff? Stick some chains on there that hang over the side. Having to BASE jump off the top before the rope gets weighted, or having to lean into the void to even thread the rope, will freak out the Swanson Arete types.

Also, though I can't tell from your pictures and my memory isn't quite clear, I'll assume the other anchors are over ledges - right?
"The applicant felt that most modern Eldo climbers use 60 meter ropes, so the nice ledge option was better." I couldn't disagree with the applicant more strongly. By "modern Eldo climbers", they must be talking only about sport climbers. I've lived in Boulder and have been climbing in Eldo for 25 years, but I still think of myself as a modern Eldo climber. And I, and most clmbers I know, use a 50 m rope for most of our climbing alpine and cragging. Most of the routes in Eldo climb from belay to belay that are natural stopping points on ledges, and are commonly less than 150 ft apart, often less than 100 ft pitches. So for 95% of the climbs in Eldo, a 50 m rope is standard, and in fact is way longer than one needs for most pitches. true, I've got a friend who just did Rincon in just two pitches with his 70 m rope (yup, he's a sport climber primarily), but most people I know who have done this route do it in the 5 or 6 pitches as originally done. I wholeheartedly support the intsallation of an improved standard rappel route as suggested, since the existing one gets parties in trouble by rope jams, and inobvious rappel points, but I can't more strongly suggest that the anchors be 80 to 85 ft apart, or else I think we'll see parties getting caught short who only have a single standard rope to rap with. I think that many of the parties doing the "easier" routes in this area of Eldo, including routes like Yellow Spur, would be doing the with 50 m ropes, and looking for a rap route, might get led to this rap route with thus too short a rope. So I submit a "yes" vote, but with strong cautions as to the suggested anchor points designed for only 60 m ropes! If the only suggestion is for the rap route for 60 m ropes, then I'd vote "NO" for the proposal.



30 M rappels for single ropes are standard in Eldo and throughout the world. This is a good proposal.
this is i good idea and i endorse it. it is possible to buy and use 50 m ropes but most people don't as far as i know. if you do buck the trend there are alternate ways to get down that i used in 1970 when i had a 50 m rope.
Tentative yes. There is a much better double rope rap off Swanson's but it is only the minority that use it. From the top tree (30' from the top) to a big tree with a rope and slings) and you reach the big ledge in 2 raps. Double ropes, of course. Despite this obvious, easy rap line, most folks still persist in the ratty gully. Nonetheless, I recommend no camoflauge for the top anchor. Also, attach a metal/permanent note to the top anchor if it will require 100 ft raps. Also, consider a single bolt above the top anchor if you must reach down to clip the first rap anchor. Otherwise, you'll get rescues/calamities out of this well-intentioned idea. This 50/60m controversy is simply narrow-minded my camp/your camp stuff.
Probably a good idea to mark the 30m rappel so that folks who might have a 50m rope know the story. I agree that the top anchor should be set up such that it is reasonable to reach from above to reduce the chance of 'over the edge' rap problems.
For such a popular area with beginners, I support the anchors. I see a trend to 60m ropes in general but agree that most Eldo routes are served just fine w/ 50s. Use twin 50s I guess.


How do you do the Long ohn Wall raps with a 50? Doable, I guess, but less than desired. My point: most climbers nowadays use 60m ropes, standard. Eldo pitches tend to be shorter than many other palces, but unless Eldo is your only place to climb, 60s are simply safer and more practical. I say stick with 30m raps, and yeah, either put the anchors on top of the ledge with chains or place a bolt to protect the "lean into the void."

A good idea but it's critical to put a plaque, as on the back of the Third Flatiron, noting that a 60-meter rope or double-50s are necessary for the rappel(s).
Placing bolts on the summit ridge is a convenience anchor! The thread in the notch is bomber and the slings are out of sight and hidden from the sun. Climbers have been rappelling down the gully for 30+ years and most of the loose rock has been cleaned up.

I think the lower anchors placed by the trees would be fine.
I think it is very presumptious to say that 60m ropes are standard. They aren't and that goes for Europe where all the rappels I did in the Dolomites this summer were 25m or less!

I think an alternative to having a maximum length of 25m for each rappel should be investigated.
No on the top anchor, not the right place due to anchors below your feet, loose big blocks, not an easy place to safely stand. I realize there is always the potential for the rope getting stuck on the first pull but...
looks good to me.
Placement of the top anchor seems like a poor choice. If you make these require a 60 meter rope, place a plaque. My vote is NO as proposed.
I think this is a great idea. At the end of the day, it makes life alot easier as rope getting caught up is very common. Also, it will pretty up the route as there are tons of slings on those trees.
From another 20+ years climbing fossil: I've almost always descended the east slabs, but in the event of a storm, this rappel option would be nice to have. I second the comment about placing the top anchor in a friendlier spot that won't freak out the Swanson Arete climbers, and heartily endorse the idea of a plaque ala Third Flatiron to inform rappellers of the length of each rappel. I suspect more people climb with a single 60m rope than with double anythings in Eldorado, so a 100' rappel is probably reasonable. Another option would indeed be to explore the idea of 25m rappels, but my steel trap memory (rusty and illegal in 37 states) doesn't tell me exactly where those could go. A qualified Yes.
Yes, It think this is a great idea. Sorry, 60 meter is standard.
I think placing anchors on the second and third rappell would be good. I question whether a bolted station is necessary on the ridge.
I think it is a great idea. Make sure the raps tkae you away from most of the traffic on swanson's. I think a plaque is also a good idea.