#93. Verschneidung Anchor

Information from Applicant

I'd like to replace the slings around trees on the 1st and 2nd pitch of Verschneidung with camouflaged bolt anchors.

Information from FHRC

This proposal is to replace the existing route anchors, for pitches 1 and 2, which consist of fixed slings around potentially unsafe trees, with two, two bolt belay/rappel stations



The first proposed anchor is at the end of the first pitch, 60 feet above the ground, at a smallish size tree. The second proposed anchor is at the end of the second pitch, to the left, and approximately 5 feet to the right of the current belay/rappel tree. Removing the fixed slings from the anchor at the second pitch, in particular, will provide a safer rappel alternative to the current small tree being utilized as a rappel anchor. Removing the fixed slings will protect the trees from abrasion and other stresses.



Removing the fixed slings will eliminate unsightly and potentially unsafe clusters of webbing.



The proposed anchor provides an anchor and rappel station to several other routes in the vicinity of Verschneidung and is in an excellent location considering the route, the current anchor, and the simplicity of the rappel. The rock quality is very good in the proposed location. The anchor will consist of two bolts in a vertical configuration with a chain and ring attached.



FHRC:recommended Park:approved Action:

Comments Received From the Climbing Community

25 In Favor, 2 Opposed
This proposal will help to save the trees that are now being used as anchors.
As a safety issue, replacing the existing tree anchors with bolts is a worthwhile suggestion. This area gets a ton of use from climbers looking for ower end grade climbs, and it's a popular area. aving anchors that save the trees, especially the small tree commonly used for one of these rapple points is a good suggestion. I support this proposal, particulary since the rappels can be done with a standard 50m rope, as used by many "beginning to intermediate" climbers.

Good idea


great idea

Yes, especially for the lower tree.
I'd rather preserve the tree and get rid of a nest of slings.
Probably a smart move given the portable nature of many smallish Eldo trees this last Spring...
please make sure these bolts are at the level of the trees or above, otherwise, the trees will have continued use/abuse. I already placed a vote, but I'd like to make it contingent on this.

Sounds like a reasonable and much-needed improvement.


Good idea. Those trees aren't exactly giant.
Great idea. I've felt unsafe on the second pitch anchor because the tree is so small. The first pitch anchor should be higher than the base of the tree so your feet are on the ledge. I don't know climbers left or right of the tree. The climb is to the right and the rappel from the second pitch anchor was to the left.
looks good.
Sounds reasonable to me.
Good idea. There's quite a nest of slings at the top pitch. Of consideration is the placement of the anchor for the first pitch. I saw the taped bolt locations; they won't allow even a 60m rope to reach the ground (unless I rapped the wrong direction). Although the downclimb is easy if you find the right spot, there's a 15 foot cliff directly below and climbers left of the rap station.
Sounds great.
It's been a while since I climbed in this particular area, but I wanted to bring up this point (which I know some of you will scoff at!). Why don't people scramble down the backside, and walk back up? It's not very far! We don't need rappels off of every route in Eldorado (yes, exaggeration, I know!). Climbers should know better than to use small/unsafe trees. Maybe you could put a sign on the tree saying "unsafe tree..." or "save a tree, walk down and around."
Yeah, why not? One of the main argument against fixed anchors is that they might seem "unsightly", but the nest of mulit colored slings is much uglier than two almost-invisible bolts!
good idea
Any bolt anchor is going to be safer than a tree, and of course will not impact vegetation. However, it does impact the rack. For this area, it is for a matter of convenience ONLY, so I would vot "no" to the bolts, but "yes" to the removal of slings. Do we really need to rap EVERY routes when there are so many other decent options? Anchors for safety- yes. Anchors for conbenience- no.
It's a trade route. Bolts would only improve the appearance and safety and give the trees a break. It would be delusional to suggest you're preserving anyting wild.