#86. Sunset Boulevard Anchor

Information from Applicant

Route: Sunset Boulevard, West face of the Bastille

Proposal to add one bolt to last existing bolt.

I'd like to add a bolt 4-6 inches above the last bolt on the route to create a rap anchor. Doing so would allow climbers to get off with a 60 meter rope without having to risk knocking rocks off the ledges above where the belay is now. In addition, it would facilitate communication between the leader and follower, which is difficult if not impossible now when the leader is belaying on the loose ledge atop the route and the follower is on the crux. The proposal would also allow for both climbers to lead the route, instead of one having to follow it, as is required now.

I'd like to add one 3/8 or 1/2 inch bolt in vertical alignment with the last bolt on the route.

Information from FHRC

Applications Regarding Anchors:

"Applications to install new anchors shall be generally given favorable consideration when the new anchor replaces anchors on trees or other vegetation or where the anchor replaces visual eyesores. e.g., wads of slings..." Adding a bolt 4-6 inches above the last bolt on the route would create a rappel anchor. This would move the existing belay stance from ledges above with loose rock. It would also facilitate communication between the leader and the follower, which is currently difficult or impossible from the existing belay.

"Applications to add anchors in the middle of existing pitches, i.e., anchors that make it easier to retreat before the traditional end of the pitch, shall be denied." While this proposed bolt would create a retreat before the traditional end of the route, the safety benefit (i.e., eliminating the likelihood of rockfall) seems to outweigh this guideline.

"Rappel anchors shall be equalized, preferably in vertical alignment." This proposal indicates that it would add a bolt in vertical alignment to the existing bolt to create a belay stance/ rappel anchor, following this guideline.

"If approved, installations of new anchors must conform to the application or be subject to removal and relocation. All applications for anchors shall accurately list the distance of the anchor from the ground or next set of anchors." This proposed anchor would be 97' from the ground. "Any fixed hardware must be made as inconspicuous as possible." Eldorado Canyon State Park requires that fixed hardware be camouflaged.

FHRC:recommended Park:approved Action:placed

Comments Received From the Climbing Community

7 In Favor, 5 Opposed
This certainly looks like a convenience bolt to me.
Sounds reasonable to me.
This would seem to be a bolt that does not change the nature of the climb NESSECARILY, in that it does not add gear where there is none. Previously the leader had to belay up top and bring up the second. This could be done from gear and/or the tree to the North. The climber would liekly already be carrying gear, so this is not a hardship, but potentially for the tree.

Now ask yourself, does it change the nature of the route POTENTIALLY? Well, it can. It does not decrease the difficulty, but it does allow the climber to "skip" the last 10 or 15' of the route. Seems OK, but potentially violates the concept of leaving the route as it was for the FA or FA intent. The rock is already bolted and these are grey areas. Please consider the above when making your decisions. I prefer my vote to be that whichever supports the will and expressed intent of the FA party. I will vote yes if they do.
I think this is silly and out of character with similar routes in Eldo. There really isn't any loose rock by the belay.
I think its a great idea. I know that the first ascentionist completely supports the idea.
i think this bolt is entirely reasonable; sport climbs typically have a 2-bolt anchor.
I believe this will add to the quality of the route. Is there something to be gained by scrambling up to the tree, being out of sight of your second, not being able to rap & then walking off in your rock shoes? There's broken rock on EVERY walk off in Eldo, another unecessary risk. I don't see any good reason to continue that. This doesn't change the character or nature of the route in any way, so why not? It will make the route more accessible & therefore more enjoyable. Do it.

This proposal is well thought-out and consistent with numerous established routes in Eldo. However, placement of the second "bolt" in vertical alignment with the first is not likely to be the best approach for placing a lowering anchor. You might consider replacing the last hanger with a Fixe' Ring Anchor and placing a second one in horizontal alignment six-to-eight inches to either side. Fixe' also now makes a double ring anchor which would facilitate some vertical offset of the second anchor, if that crieria is preferred. Either method would create a sound lowering anchor. Powder coated camo anchors are available.
Unlike "your mother", this proposed lowering point doesnt really seem like the end of the route. Adding an anchor would be fixing something that works just fine.
Whats a sport climb without an anchor to toprope with?
I think it's a great idea. It increases safety for the climbing party and for others in the area. Doing the last 15' to a chossy belay and then walking off in your rock shoes does nothing for the 'experience'.