New Route Proposal-Yellow Fellow 5.11+

 

Information from Applicant

Information from the Applicant- The Fixed Hardware Review Committee has received the following information from the applicant.

Application Type- New route.

Location- Start about 30 feet right of Mellow Yellow at a small, right facing corner complex. The start is next to the tree which is closest to the wall between the start of Mellow Yellow and the South Face of Tower 1.

Approach- Same as for Mellow Yellow.

 

Difficulty and Length- 5.11+ and approximately 70 feet in length.


Description Yellow Fellow parallels the first pitch of Mellow Yellow, about 30 feet to the right, and ends at the same anchor above Mellow Yellow's 11d roof. Yellow Fellow is an independent line, only converging with Mellow Yellow at the belay. It involves moderate 5.10 climbing (interspersed with some 5.8-5.9 moves) all the way to the final bulge where the 5.11+ crux is. I propose to place 4 bolts protecting the initial part of the pitch and then a 5th bolt at the crux. After the crux there is adequate natural gear for the remaining 20 feet to the anchor. The nature of the route will be relatively safe for the 5.11 Eldo climber...bolts close to the hard moves with reasonable runouts on the easier climbing. The natural gear after the crux is more than adequate...might be pumpy to put in but it won't be that committing. I think the gear is too good to consider bolting this section. There is an obvious sweet spot for a bolt at the crux, leading to good natural gear. The bolts for the initial section are more subjective. We tried to whittle it down to a minimum. The first bolt protects you from a ground fall before the climbing gets insecure the second bolt is close enough to the first to protect from a ground fall, again. The hard moves here are close to the second bolt and then the climbing eases and is pretty positive when you reach the ledge, some fortuitous gear protects the moves onto and off of the ledge. The natural placement off the ledge allows the elimination of one bolt at some 5.8 climbing and protects from a nasty ledge fall while clipping the 3rd bolt. The fourth bolt is a reasonable runout from the third and is needed to protect the moves up to the 5th bolt at the crux.
 

Information from FHRC about the new route proposal

Factors in Favor


Independent Line- The proposed route is an independent line. To the left is the 1st pitch of Upper Mellow Yellow and to the right is the South Face of Tower One.  Both adjacent routes start at least 25 feet away from the proposed route.

 

Direct Line- The proposed route climbs a direct line, intersecting with no other routes. The lower section ascends a green slab at about 5.9/5.10 then takes a roof with 11+ moves. 

 

Good Rock- The proposed new route has relatively good rock.


Interesting combination of moves- The proposed route starts with thin and delicate 5.9 and 5.10 slab climbing, then transitions into harder traversing moves up and right with interesting sidepulls, and ends with a very powerful section over a roof.  This last 5.11+ section is sustained and involves underclings, a dyno to a gaston, and liebacking.  Overall, it’s quite a varied pitch with interesting moves throughout.


Safety-. The proposed route should be reasonably safe for the leader experienced at the grade.  Some of the moves would be protected by RPs and other very small pro, including a section of 5.9 or easy 5.10 before clipping the first bolt. 

Location- about 30 feet right of Mellow Yellow at a small, right facing corner complex.

Aesthetic Position- Like Mellow Yellow, the proposed line goes up a beautiful, yellow-lichened wall in good position.

 
Factors Against
 Rock Quality- Generally very good rock quality.

 

Protection Reachable from Neighboring Routes- completely independent line with no possibility of using any gear placements on nearby routes.

 

Natural Protection Possibilities- Numerous places exist for natural protection, although the proposed bolts are either nowhere near any natural pro options, or they are at least a few feet away from natural gear.  One exception might be that natural pro can be had low, about 3-4 feet before the first proposed bolt, and additional natural gear (small nuts or RPs) could be placed a few feet above the proposed first bolt placement.

 

Neutral Factors

Dangerous Routes- The proposed route is safe for an Eldorado climber competent at the grade.

Ability to toprope- The route can be toproped, but setting this up requires climbing the crux pitch of Mellow Yellow which is harder than the proposed route.