New Anchor Proposal- Mellow Yellow

Information from Applicant:

Upgrade the Mellow Yellow anchor to two bolts.

Summary: The current rappel anchor at the end of the first pitch of Mellow Yellow consists of a piton directly above a slung flake. The two are connected by a piece of webbing. There is also a fixed nut about a foot left of the rap ring behind another flake. The natural back-up options consist of a nut directly below the pin and a large flake 5 feet up and left from the rap ring. I propose putting in two bolts to replace this anchor in solid rock directly to the right of the current rap ring.

Application Type- New belay anchor with new fixed hardware.

Location- Top of crux pitch of Mellow Yellow

Information from FHRC about the Mellow Yellow anchor proposal

Overview
More often than not, upper Mellow Yellow is climbed as multi-pitch climb, with most climbers climbing up and over the summit. Climbers that are forced to retreat due to bad weather or other reasons use the anchor at the end of the first pitch as an emergency rappel station. When climbing the route this anchor is usually backed up with a number of pieces of natural gear. The natural gear placements are not “text book” perfect, but make a solid strong anchor when equalized and combined with the fixed pieces. This is a common occurrence in Eldo, where often anchors require several pieces of gear and the use of long cordelettes to equalize them into strong solid anchors. Like many emergency rappels in Eldo the current fixed anchor sometimes has webbing, however it is in a remote location and therefore is seldom noticed.

Mellow Yellow is a route well known for being a bold and difficult undertaking. The proposed new anchor will have some influence on the route’s character. All other routes, both to the left and to the right are like Mellow Yellow multi-pitch climbs, and might have emergency rappel anchors, but are usually climbed to the top.

1) Does the proposed anchor replace webbing?
Yes.

2) Is the proposed anchor in the middle of a pitch?

No.

4) How long is the proposed rappel?
Approximately 70 feet long

5) What will be the effects of this new proposed anchor?

a) It will provide a comfortable way of climbing the new proposed route, Yellow Fellow, as a single pitch climb.

b) It will clean up the current emergency rappel anchor.

c) It will change a currently technical traditional belay anchor on Mellow Yellow, a route known for being serious and demanding considerable skill and judgment, into a convenient and bombproof belay/rappel anchor point, thus changing the nature of the route.

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