New Route Proposal-West Ridge–Wishbone, 5.11 - photo
Information from Applicant
Information from the Applicant- The
Fixed Hardware Review Committee has received the following information from the
applicant.
Application Type-
New route with new fixed hardware.
Location- This route is located in
the amphitheater above Morning Thunder at the base of the West Ridge. Wishbone ascends the S facing wall 30’ right
of the start to Wing Shot. It would
start immediately R of the proposed new route “Wild Turkey”. Easily viewed from the Milton Boulder – the
proposed bolt locations are currently marked with white tape.
Approach- Same as
for Wingshot, Blues Power, and Office Girls.
Difficulty and Length- 5.11, 70’
Description- Wishbone is located at the “Turkey
Perch”, 30’ right of the Wingshot / Blues Power alcove at the very base of the
West Ridge. Starting
10’ down and right of the proposed new route “Wild Turkey”, the route moves out
right and up the south facing vertical wall overlooking the creek and road. Reference Rossiter’s guidebook, page 235.
Wishbone is approximately 70’
long and moves right onto the face around the corner from Wild Turkey then
follows a natural band back left finishing 25’ right of the Wild Turkey
anchors.
The applicant proposes 5
new bolts supplemented by natural gear placements. There are 2 bolts on the initial traverse
and 3 bolts on the upper headwall (crux).
New anchors will need to be
added since a suitable belay / TR anchor is located well back over the top and
difficult to place.
Fixed Gear- The applicant proposes to add 5 new bolts on
the route and 2 new bolts for the anchor.
Seven total new bolts.
Rock Quality and
Information from FHRC
Factors
in Favor
Independent Line- The proposed route is an independent line.
Direct
Line- The proposed route follows an exposed natural traverse right
and then a natural line back left to the top.
Good
Rock- The proposed new route has mixed quality of rock. The
lower portion climbs through some lower quality, yet relatively solid
rock. The upper portion is very good
quality rock.
Interesting combination of moves-
The proposed route has an interesting variety of exposed face climbing moves.
Safety- The proposed route will be
safe yet retain a relatively bold Eldorado standard. There will be a two-bolt
lower off at approximately seventy feet, where the line meets easy slabs.
Location- The proposed route is
located at the base of the West Ridge in the Office Girls/ Blues Power/
Wingshot alcove above the popular Morning Thunder.
Aesthetic Position-The climb is
located on a very exposed and airy position and climbs a beautiful feature.
Factors Against
Altered Routes- The proposed route has not been chipped
or chiseled in any way.
Rock
Quality- The rock quality is varied. Lower portion is lower
quality than upper portion.
Protection
Reachable from Neighboring Routes- Definitely an independent
line with no possibilities of clipping or wandering over to neighboring route.
Natural
Protection Possibilities- There are
natural protection possibilities between the second and third bolts, as well as
on the headwall. This natural gear
supplements the proposed fixed gear.
Neutral
Factors
Dangerous Routes- The proposed
route is safe for an Eldorado climber competent at the grade.
Ability to toprope- The route can
be toproped, but setting this up is not simple.
