New Route Upper South Buttress, Red Garden
Information from Applicant
Information from the Applicant- the Fixed Hardware Review
Committee has received the following information from the applicant.
Application Type-
New route with new fixed hardware.
Location- This route is located near
the top of Pseudo Sidetrack - to the Right of Archer-McLanahan and Left of PA’s
Variation. The route starts from the Lower Juniper Tree ledge on
Pseudo-Sidetrack. Proposed Bolt
locations are marked.
Approach- Pseudo-Sidetrack, C’est La
Vie, etc..
Difficulty and Length- 5.11, 140’
Description-
The route would climb the
blank face between Archer-McLanahan and PA’s variation, starting from the lower
juniper tree ledge on Pseudo-Sidetrack.
The climb is high quality and fairly sustained in difficulty, with a
crux in the 5.11 b/c range and several other sections of 5.10 and 5.9.
The pitch is about 140 ft
long. The applicant is applying for 9
bolts; none of which would be fewer than 20 feet from the adjacent routes.
The anchor takes plenty of
natural gear (mid/large range cams) and would not require bolts. The approach
routes require gear, so the leader would have gear along.
The descent is the same as
for Pseudo-Sidetrack and Archer-McLanahan; a walk off to the North East.
Fixed Gear- The applicant proposes to add 9 new bolts on
the route.
Rock Quality and
Information from FHRC
Factors
in Favor
Independent Line- The proposed route is an independent line.
Direct
Line- The proposed route is direct and follows a natural line
of face holds, pockets, a seam, and huecos.
Good
Rock- The proposed new route has quality rock.
Interesting combination of moves- The proposed route has an interesting variety of exposed face climbing moves.
Safety- The proposed route has the hard sections protected by bolts. There is a runout between the second and third bolts, on steep 5.9+ ground, protected by a nut placement. Below the final two bolts and above the last bolt are runouts on 5.7 ground. Most of the pitch is sustained at 5.10 and above, and is safely protected by bolts spaced at least a body length apart.
Location-
The proposed route is located between Archer – McLanahan and PA’s
Variation. It begins off the Lower
Juniper Tree ledge.
Aesthetic Position-The climb is
located in an aesthetic position.
Factors Against
Protection
Reachable from Neighboring Routes- Definitely an independent
line with no possibilities of clipping or wandering over to neighboring route.
Natural
Protection Possibilities- There is natural protection
possibilities between the second and third bolts. This natural gear supplements
the proposed fixed gear and would be optional to place.
Neutral
Factors
Dangerous Routes- The proposed route
is safe for an Eldorado climber competent at the grade.
Ability to toprope- The route can be
toproped by climbing up the East Slabs and locating the top of the route, or by
climbing any of the neighboring routes and setting up an anchor.