The Fixed Hardware Review Committee

Here is the Eldorado Canyon Fixed Hardware Application Form. Applications are accepted twice a year. The deadline for the Spring session is April 1st for consideration at a meeting in the third week of June. For the Fall session, the deadline is August 1st, and the meeting is held the third week of October.

New apps may be submitted using the online form below, or by mail using a printable form. Online submission is preferred.

Application Name: Route Image (required): Location (be specific) and type of each fixed piece: Adjacent Routes and Distances from them:

If you wish to replace like gear (e.g. a bolt for a bolt, or a piton for a piton), no application is required. Contact the Park and let them know when you want to replace the hardware. They will issue you a permit.

Route Location: Route Length:

Route Image (required): Type of Hardware to be Replaced/Removed: Type of Hardware to be Installed:

Review Criteria: ACE’s Fixed Hardware Review Committee’s goal is to preserve the history and character of Eldorado’s unique climbing experiences while allowing limited development of quality new fixed gear routes. The essential character of routes, as established by the first free ascent, will be preserved. This means traditional climbs will remain so. Bold routes will remain bold. Retro-bolting will be approved only when, in the opinion of the Committee, historic fixed gear and/or gear placements have significantly deteriorated. Historic fixed gear that has pulled (usually pins) may be replaced if it is deemed essential to preserving the route’s character. Existing fixed gear shall be maintained. Bolts will replace bolts and pins will replace pins unless switching does not alter the route’s character.

Evaluation of new fixed gear routes will be based on several criteria. Routes with quality rock, aesthetic position, interesting climbing, and potential appeal to present and future Eldorado climbers will generally be viewed favorably. Routes that are squeezed between existing climbs, or routes which climb over loose rock will generally be discouraged. Routes with chipped or chiseled holds will be denied.

The Fixed Hardware Review Committee (FHRC) will inform the local climbing community of any proposal requiring new fixed hardware. Approval of any new application will be based on the FHRC’s review and the local climbing community’s favorable or unfavorable opinion of the new proposal. New applications will be discussed and voted on at the FHRC’s biannual public meeting and the committee’s recommendation will be forwarded to the Park.

The FHRC members may ask to meet with the applicant to clarify issues such as the exact location of the new route and the exact location of each piece of new fixed hardware.

About ACE: ACE is a nonprofit corporation dedicated to protecting Eldorado Canyon State Park and promoting environmentally responsible climbing. Its board is comprised of representatives from: The Access Fund, The American Alpine Club, The American Mountain Guides Association, and The Colorado Mountain Club, as well as concerned citizens. Among other activities, ACE organizes the annual "Celebrate Eldorado" event. Each year, thousands of dollars are raised to support projects that benefit climbers, such as funding climbing access trails and organizing volunteers to wash off chalk, plant trees, and improve trails. If you would like to help with this or other projects, please write to us at ACE.

Applications must be submitted by April 1st for the June review meeting or August 1st for the October review meeting

This page last revised on April 28 2010